How to read a skincare ingredient list (INCI) in 5 steps
Read the first six ingredients, find “Parfum” and the allergens named with it, then check the CI numbers at the end. Here is why each step works.
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Skip to contentLinalool, Limonene, Citral and Geraniol are fragrance allergens an EU label must name. Since 31 July 2026, new products must name 56 more.
An EU cosmetic label must name a fragrance allergen once it passes 0.001% of a leave-on product or 0.01% of a rinse-off one, instead of leaving it inside Parfum. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 adds 56 to the 24 already named. New products have had to name them since 31 July 2026; older stock may be sold until 31 July 2028.
Parfum, Fragrance or Aroma is one word for a blend that can hold many substances[1]. EU law asks for the blend to be listed as parfum or aroma, and for the fragrance allergens on its list to be named in the ingredient list in addition to that word[2]. So a label can print Parfum and, further down, Linalool, Limonene and Citral: the blend, then the allergens inside it.
In the US, fragrance can be listed simply as “Fragrance”, because fragrance formulas are treated as trade secrets[3].
They are ordinary entries in the same INCI list, under their INCI names. The list runs from the highest concentration down to 1%, and below 1% any order is allowed[2], which is why a label can print them right after Parfum or at the very end. The guide to reading an INCI list walks through the rest of the label.
Since the 2023 change, some entries are plant oils and extracts named in full: ylang ylang oil and extract, for example, is labelled “Cananga Odorata Oil/Extract”[4].
In the EU, a listed fragrance allergen must be named once its concentration passes 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off product[2][4]. A leave-on product is meant to stay in prolonged contact with the skin, hair or mucous membranes, such as a moisturiser; a rinse-off product is meant to be removed after application, such as a shampoo or a shower gel[2].
0.001% is 10 milligrams in a kilogram of product, and 0.01% is 100 milligrams. Below those levels, an allergen can be present without being named.
In 2003 the EU required 26 fragrance allergens to be named above those levels[5]. Two of them were later banned from cosmetics altogether: hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, known as Lyral, by Regulation (EU) 2017/1410[6], and butylphenyl methylpropional, known as Lilial, by Regulation (EU) 2021/1902[7]. That left the 24 the Commission counted when it adopted Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 on 26 July 2023[4].
The 2023 regulation adds 56 fragrance allergens that the EU’s scientific committee found had clearly caused allergies in people[4]. It also groups some substances into single entries and brings their names up to date with the current ingredient glossary[8]. Counts differ with the source: the regulation speaks of 24 allergens and 56 more, while Health Canada, which applies the EU list, describes the same change as 24 to 81 entries[9].
| Group | Examples as printed | On EU labels |
|---|---|---|
| On the list before 2023 (24) | Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, Citronellol | Every product above the threshold[2][4] |
| Added by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (56) | Linalyl Acetate, Terpineol, Cananga Odorata Oil/Extract (ylang ylang) | New products since 31 July 2026; every product after 31 July 2028[4][8] |
| Banned from EU cosmetics | Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde (Lyral), Butylphenyl Methylpropional (Lilial) | No longer allowed in a cosmetic[6][7] |
The EU sets the list. Canada uses it by reference, on its own dates, and the US has yet to set a list of its own.
| Market | The rule | Dates |
|---|---|---|
| European Union | Named in the ingredient list above 0.001% (leave-on) or 0.01% (rinse-off)[2][4] | The 56 added names: new products since 31 July 2026; older stock may be sold until 31 July 2028[8] |
| Canada | The EU list, used by reference, at the same levels[9] | 24 names on every cosmetic since 12 April 2026; the expanded list of 81 entries on new cosmetics from 1 August 2026 and on existing ones from 1 August 2028[9] |
| United States | “Fragrance” may be listed as one word[3]; the 2022 cosmetics law, MoCRA, requires a rule on fragrance allergen labelling[10] | The FDA lists that rule among the regulations it must still establish[10] |
Not always. The FDA says a product labelled “fragrance free” should contain no added fragrance ingredients, and that one labelled “unscented” may contain a masking fragrance to hide the smell of other ingredients[11]. Neither word replaces the ingredient list: read it for Parfum and for the named allergens.
Method: names from the published dictionary file (English edition), version 1.5.1, built 1 October 2026 and read on 13 October 2026[12]. A match means the name is printed on the label, not how much of it the product contains.
Bravoora flags Parfum and the named fragrance allergens that follow it in the ingredient list[1], and shows the printed name with its meaning: “Linalool = fragrance allergen”. It then compares the match with the profile you build, so the answer is about the person: “Not for Emma” when Emma avoids fragrance. The methodology shows how it is tested.
Let Bravoora read the label with you.
Tell it once what matters: your allergens, your diet, the ingredients you watch. Every answer then shows the words it is based on.
This guide covers fragrance allergen labelling on cosmetics in the EU, Canada and the US. It does not cover UK rules or flavourings in food.
Sources were checked on 13 October 2026.
This is general label information, not medical or dermatological advice. A dermatologist can tell you which names matter for your skin.
No. The name says the substance is present above the labelling level. It matters to people who know they react to it, and a dermatologist can tell you which names to avoid.
Not yet. New products placed on the EU market since 31 July 2026 must name them; products placed before that date may stay on sale with the earlier list until 31 July 2028.
US rules let fragrance be listed as one word, because fragrance formulas are treated as trade secrets. The 2022 cosmetics law requires a rule on fragrance allergen labelling, which the FDA lists among the regulations it must still establish.
They are the levels above which a listed fragrance allergen must be named: 0.001%, or 10 milligrams in a kilogram, in a leave-on product, and 0.01%, or 100 milligrams in a kilogram, in a rinse-off one. The label prints the name, not the amount.
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Build your profile in about three minutes: the people you check for, what they avoid, what you track.