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How to read a skincare ingredient list (INCI) in 5 steps

Read the first six ingredients, find “Parfum” and the allergens named with it, then check the CI numbers at the end. Here is why each step works.

By Bravoora teamPublished Updated Sources checked 6 min read

INGREDIENTSAqua,Glycerin,Butyrospermum Parkii Butter,Cetearyl Alcohol,Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,Niacinamide,Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil,Phenoxyethanol,Parfum,Tocopherol,Linalool,Limonene,CI 77891,CI 75470.1%1342512M
  1. First six: most of the product.
  2. The 1% line: after it, any order is allowed. The label doesn’t mark where it falls.
  3. Parfum: one word for a blend. Named allergens such as Linalool are listed separately.
  4. CI numbers: the colourants. CI 75470 is carmine.
  5. 12M: use within 12 months of opening.
A sample tinted moisturiser label. Read the first six names, find Parfum and its named allergens, then check the CI numbers at the end.

Key takeaways

  • Cosmetic ingredients use INCI names: Latin for plants (Butyrospermum Parkii is shea butter), English for most others, “Aqua” for water.
  • Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration down to 1%; below 1% they can appear in any order.
  • Since 31 July 2026, the EU list of fragrance allergens that must be named on new cosmetics has grown from 26 to more than 80.
  • Colourants appear at the end as CI numbers: CI 77891 is titanium dioxide and CI 75470 is carmine.

The short answer

INCI is the standard naming system for cosmetic ingredients. The list runs from the highest concentration down to 1%; below that, any order is allowed. “Parfum” stands for a whole fragrance blend, and in the EU named fragrance allergens must be listed above set levels. Colourants usually come last, as CI numbers.

What is an INCI name?

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It gives each cosmetic ingredient one standard name, so the same product can be labelled the same way in Paris, Sydney and Los Angeles[1]. Plant ingredients use their Latin botanical name, often with the common name in brackets, and water is “Aqua”. US labels use common names for some ingredients, so a US label may say “Water” and “Shea Butter” where an EU label says “Aqua” and “Butyrospermum Parkii Butter”[2].

Latin names matter for allergies: sweet almond oil, a tree nut ingredient, appears as Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, and oat extract as Avena Sativa[1].

Why does the order of ingredients matter?

The order of ingredients matters because the list runs from the highest concentration to the lowest, down to 1%. Anything at 1% or less can be listed in any order after that[2][3]. In practice, the first five or six names make up most of the product, and an “active” listed near the end may be present at a very low level, such as niacinamide in a basic cream. The label doesn’t show percentages, so the order is the only clue.

What do “Parfum” and the named fragrance allergens mean?

“Parfum”, “Fragrance” or “Aroma” is a single word that can stand for dozens of ingredients. In the EU and UK, certain fragrance allergens must be named individually when they exceed 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products, for example Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol and Geraniol[3].

The EU list has now grown. Since 31 July 2026, new products placed on the EU market must name any of more than 80 fragrance allergens above those levels, up from 26. Products already on sale before that date may stay on shelves until 31 July 2028, so both kinds of label will be seen for a while[4][5].

“Fragrance-free” means no added fragrance. “Unscented” can mean a masking fragrance was added to cover the base smell. Read the list.

What do CI numbers mean?

CI numbers are Colour Index codes for colourants, and they are usually listed at the end[3]. Some to know: CI 77891 is titanium dioxide, CI 77491 to 77499 are iron oxides, CI 75470 is carmine (from insects), and CI 42090 is Brilliant Blue. A “+/-” or “may contain” before the colours means the shades of a whole make-up line are listed on one label.

Are “free from” claims regulated?

“Free from” claims are regulated only in general terms. Claims such as “paraben-free”, “sulfate-free” and “dermatologically tested” are marketing statements. In the EU they must be truthful and not misleading[3], but they don’t change the ingredient list, which is where the answer is. “Hypoallergenic” has no single legal definition.

What 888 real cosmetic ingredient lists show

  • The word “carmine” appeared on none of 888 real cosmetic ingredient lists; its code, CI 75470, appeared on 49.
  • Fragrance is printed as “Parfum” far more often than “Fragrance”: 506 lists against 200, with “Aroma” on 56.
  • Sweet almond, a tree nut, appeared under its Latin name Prunus Amygdalus on 42 lists.

Method: 888 INCI lists from Open Beauty Facts, read on 20 September 2026[6]. Data: Open Beauty Facts contributors, ODbL. One list can contain more than one of these words. The same analysis added these names to Bravoora’s label dictionary[7].

How do you read any bottle in 5 steps?

  1. Read the first six ingredients: that’s most of the product.
  2. Find “Parfum” or “Fragrance”, then look for the named allergens on the list.
  3. Scan for the ingredients you avoid, under their INCI names (for example Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Methylparaben, Alcohol Denat., Cocos Nucifera Oil).
  4. Check the colourants at the end for ones you avoid, such as CI 75470 (carmine).
  5. Note the period-after-opening symbol (an open jar with “12M”) and use the product within it.

How are skincare labels written in the Gulf?

Skincare packs often carry a second language on the box, but the INCI list stays in Latin letters: INCI has no translated version. That is why the routine above works on any pack, whichever language the rest of the label uses.

How does Bravoora check a skincare label?

Bravoora looks for fragrance and its named allergens, colourants such as carmine (CI 75470) and the Latin names of food allergens, such as Prunus Amygdalus for almond, in the INCI list. It shows you the words it matched and compares them with your profile. The methodology shows how it is tested.

Let Bravoora read the label with you.

Tell it once what matters: your allergens, your diet, the ingredients you watch. Every answer then shows the words it is based on.

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Scope and limits

This guide covers ingredient lists on cosmetics and skincare. It does not cover medicines, sunscreen protection claims or supplements.

EU and US rules were checked on 22 September 2026.

This is general label information, not medical or dermatological advice.

Frequently asked questions

Are the new EU fragrance allergen labels in force?

Yes. Since 31 July 2026, new cosmetics placed on the EU market must name any of more than 80 fragrance allergens present above set levels, up from 26. Products already on the market before that date may be sold until 31 July 2028.

Does “fragrance-free” mean no fragrance allergens?

Not always. “Fragrance-free” means no fragrance was added on purpose. Some plant extracts and essential oils naturally contain fragrance allergens such as Linalool or Limonene, so check the list for those names as well.

What does “Alcohol Denat.” mean?

Denatured ethanol: an alcohol that evaporates quickly and can feel drying. It is different from fatty alcohols such as Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol, which are waxy and moisturising.

Is carmine listed in cosmetics?

Yes, usually as CI 75470, and rarely as the word “carmine”. It is made from cochineal insects, which matters for vegan profiles.

Sources

  1. CosIng: cosmetic ingredient databaseEuropean Commissionchecked
  2. Cosmetics Labeling GuideUS Food and Drug Administrationchecked
  3. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (Articles 19 and 20, Annex III)European Union (EUR-Lex)Official Journal L 342, 22 December 2009checked
  4. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 on the labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic productsEuropean Union (EUR-Lex)Adopted 26 July 2023checked
  5. Fragrance allergens: the July EU deadline FAQCOSlaw.euchecked
  6. Open Beauty Facts: cosmetic ingredient lists (888 INCI panels sampled)Open Beauty Facts contributors (ODbL)Sampled 20 September 2026checked
  7. Bravoora label dictionary (public data file, English edition, version 1.5.1)BravooraBuilt 1 October 2026checked

Change log

  1. Figures redrawn in English and the label words section rewritten: it now lists the names as they are printed on English-language packs. Every dictionary count is read from the published English file, and the byline names the Bravoora team.
  2. Updated the EU fragrance allergen rule to the present tense: since 31 July 2026 new products must name the expanded list. Rewrote “How does Bravoora check a skincare label” to list only what the dictionary matches. Added facts from 888 real ingredient lists, a scope section and numbered sources.
  3. First published.

How we write and check articles

Ingredient guides for this topic

Beauty ingredientFragrance (parfum)One word on the label that can stand for many ingredients.Read the guideAdditiveCarmine (E120)A bright red colour made from insects.Read the guideBeauty ingredientNiacinamideA form of vitamin B3 found in many serums and moisturisers.Read the guideAllergenTree nutsAlmonds, cashews, walnuts and the rest — and the sweets they hide inside.Read the guide

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